The word kimono literally means ‘thing to wear’. It cannot get more beautifully simpler than this! This stunning garment that brings to the mind elegant ladies gently sitting down to a ritual of tea was probably introduced into Japan from China as an undergarment. It has changed every now and then to conform to the lifestyle of the people of each age. Kimonos have altered over the years to keep pace with the changes in Japanese society. This one garment synonymous with Japanese culture is comfort, ease and grace rolled into one.

Traditionally kimonos were worn by both men as well as women with variations in the design of the garment. It had two distinct upper and lower pieces in the very beginning. It was during 794 to 1185 (during the Heian period) that the kimono morphed into a single long flowing garment from its prior avatar of two pieces. After this it became elaborately layered. Layer upon layer of kimonos were worn as a fashion statement. The royals and the glitterati of that age were wearing up to sixteen kimonos one under the other! The color of each kimono was tastefully exhibited at the sleeve edges and the collars.

As the warrior class rose to power from 1185 to 1133 (the Kamakura period) the intricate layered kimonos of the earlier age gave way to functionality. Kimonos with small sleeves are a development of this time. Bright colors were used in kimonos from 1192. A sort of class distinction was apparent now in the styles and the color of the kimonos. For instance, Samurai warriors could be recognized by the color of their kimonos and their allegiance to a particular leader was easily broadcast.

In the Edo period which followed (from the year 1600) the obi or the belt caught the designers fancy. It became more elaborate with sophisticated dyes and weaves.  Kimonos were becoming an artist’s canvas during this time with embroidery and dyes used to create gorgeous pieces of art. These were treasured as family heirlooms. As Japanese attire is traditionally not accessorized much, the garment has to express taste and elegance on its own while making a fashion statement.  The women’s kimono became very decorative.

With the introduction of electric weaving and the knowledge of chemical dyes from the West during the Meiji period (beginning in 1868) the kimono, as expected, changed. The fact that women now started to work outside the house also resulted in change in design. The free-flowing garment of yore was now tucked and that became the new style. The kimono became much simpler when silk production was restricted and the economy went into military buildup mode during the Showa era of 1912.